WAIT!

Having three dogs comes with new challenges, especially when the newest addition, Hershey, dislikes my dobermans' rambunctious antics! Instead of making their playing off limits, I put one of my favorite cues to work. "Wait" is one of m favorite cues to teach a dog because: 

1. It doesn't require treats (with overweight Hershey, that is a mega plus!)
2. It can be taught very easily during everyday events
3. This cue is fairly easy to do with multiple dogs
4. Teaches self control 
5. Teaching your dog a release word is very easy with this cue

Before I continue, I feel the need to remind readers that "wait" and "stay" are very different. When I ask a dog to "wait," I am communicating "do not go past this boundary." "Stay" means, "remain still in your current position." This cue does not require treats because the reward is being allowed to go into the desired area.

Teaching Wait Part 1

1. Begin with one dog 
2. When allowing your dog to go outside to relieve themselves, go to the doorway with the door closed. It is sometimes easiest to face your dog when starting this exercise.
3. Begin to open the door slowly. As your dog tries to bolt out the door, block his path with your leg and  ask your dog "wait." If your dog is struggling to get past you, close the door and block your dog so they cannot get past you. Do not pull your dog's collar unless your dog is especially determined! Body blocking with your leg should be enough for most dogs, and the door should not be completely opened in case your dog is harder to handle.
4. Your dog should back up when you body block with your leg. Right away, verbally praise your dog and step to the side. If you step to the side of your door (with it partially open!) and your dog tries to go through again, body block him again. DO NOT REPEAT YOUR CUE WORD. If he pushes past you, get him back into the house and try again. An especially pushy dog might benefit from a leash to prevent escape. Escaping would be a self-reinforcing behavior, and we want to set our dogs up for success!
5. After your dog is successful with step 3 and 4 for one second or so (so your dog is not trying to bolt through when you body block, and they do not bolt through when you step to the side),  release them to go outside. A "release word" is very important, especially with cues such as "wait" and "stay." If you do not have a release word, your dog won't know when you want to communicate to him "alright, now you can go outside!" Good release words are, ok, break, release, potato, or anything you want to use as long as it is consistent. 
6. Repeat steps 1-5 the next time your dog wants to go outside. At first, only expect your dog to wait for a second with the door partially open. As your dog improves, raise criteria! To do this, open the door wider, and slowly have them wait for a longer period of time before you release them. Do this with all of your dogs individually, and you can start to do this with multiple dogs together as they improve with this important skill!

Extreme Waiting!

When your dog is waiting politely with minimal body blocking (or none at all!), ask your dog to wait in various areas of the house such as hallways and other rooms in the house. Ask your dog to wait in areas that you do not want them going into at all for a short period of time, such as remaining in the living room while you eat dinner in the dining room. If they leave the living room and go into the dining room, remember to put them back ! If you do this consistently when you eat dinner, they will learn quickly and it will only get easier!

     I'm very cautious with Hershey being around my two rambunctious dobermans, so I had her "wait" in a section of the kitchen while I had my boys "wait" outside of the area that she was in. I had to redo my second video several times so it was hard to show my boys turning away from the area that I asked them to stay away from. I was able to make my lunch in peace without worrying that my boys would go bother Hershey, and that she wouldn't leave to go bother them and get into trouble!